How to Sew a French Seam

Saturday, 12 May, 2018

By Georgina Raudino

I wanted to share with you something that I highly recommend every sewer needs to know and learn how to do. A French Seam is a versatile seam, which can be used on a broad range of deigns and also fabrics.

What is a French Seam!? Well I am glad you asked... It is a seam that encases the fabric’s raw edges within the seam itself so that it leaves a clean, neat and professional-looking finish. It does take some time to do but is well worth the dedication.

I find the French Seam one of the most diverse seams to use as it can be crafted on a variety of fabrics. Given that it’s fairly easy to learn and leaves your end product/garment looking fantastic, I highly recommend taking the time to learn 'How to Sew a French Seam'.

Why use a French Seam

- If you are using delicate fabric (eg. Silk, Chiffon, Sheer Fabric, Rayon etc.)

- If you do not own an overlocker at home to finish off the edge of your fabric

- If you are a home sewer

- If you want a premium finish for your garment

How to Sew a French Seam

1. Prepare your fabric, marking/noting the wrong side of your fabric. Cut all loose thread making sure everything is neat and ready for you to sew.

2. Pin wrong sides of fabric together making sure everything is lined up neatly. This is probably the only time (unless intentionally) you will start a seam with wrong sides together. Use as many pins as you need, you can never use enough pins to secure your fabric.

3. Sew a straight stitch (0.5 cm or 5/8" of an inch). Back tacking at the start and at the end to secure the stitch in place. Also don't forget to remove the pins as you do. HOT TIP - Also remember once you have finished sewing you can always cut back the seam if you prefer sewing a wider seam allowance.

4. Iron your seam flat so that pinning the next step is much easier. I also recommend ironing every step as you go, especially with delicate fabrics.

5. Once you have ironed pin your fabric now facing right sides together. As you pin along use your thumb and you pointer finger to roll the seam back making sure the seam is nice and tight. Use as many pins as you need so that when you so you don't create any ripples. This is caused by your fabric slipping/moving as you sew. It needs to be kept straight.