-and hold together with tape
TRANSFERRING THE PATTERN TO FABRIC
• Place the pattern onto the fabric and u se pins to hold in place
• Take note of fold lines and straight grains
• Transfer markings using tailors chalk
• Notch seam allowance using the point of sharp scissors
• It may be helpful to outline your choice of size in coloured
pen before you cut out the pattern
• Cut along the OUTSIDE SOLID line. The dashed line is your
stitching line
• All sizes have 1.5 cm / (5/8) inches seam allowance
STEP-BY-STEP
HOT TIP - Pre Wash your fabric before use. This helps with any warping or shrinkage of your fabric.
BINDING THE SEAM
STEP 1. Make sure you have notched all your seam allowances before removing your pattern pieces. Notch the centre back as well.
STEP 2. Using a bias binding tape that is 12mm or 3/4” wide (minimum), we are going to bind all the seams of this cape that show. I have used an acetate binding that looks like satin.
STEP 3. On the wrong side of the seam allowance of your cape panels, open out the fold in the binding tape and pin it, matching the raw edges. Stitch through this fold line.
STEP 4. Fold the binding over to the front of the panels and pin and stitch the binding on the folded edge. You should cover the first row of stitching. Don’t worry if you can see the stitching on the wrong side. It won’t show on the finished garment.
STEP 5. Bind the front, side front, side back, side seams and the centre seams of the hood. Don’t bind the facing edge.
STITCHING THE PANELS
STEP 1. With right sides together, pin and sew the side front to the front panels leaving the opening for the hands. Make sure you reinforce the start and finish of all your seams.
STEP 2. With right sides together, pin and sew the side back panels to the centre back, and the front and back together at the side seams.
STEP 3. Press all these seams open.
STEP 4. Bind the hem following the process for sewing on the binding.
THE HOOD
STEP 1. With right sides together, pin and stitch the centre seam of the hood together.
STEP 2. With right sides together, pin the facing of the hood to the facing of the front facing of the cape. Stitch on the seam allowance line but only as far as the seam allowance at the neck edge of these pieces.
STEP 3. With right sides together, pin and stitch the hood to the neck edge, making sure all your seam allowances are open including the seam that connects the facing of the hood to the facing of the cape.
STEP 4. Press the front facing back into position.
STEP 5. At the neck edge, press the beginning of the facing seam open and clip in to release the seam allowance, so you can press the rest of the neck seam together.
STEP 6. With right sides together, pin and sew the hood facing together at the top front.
STEP 7. Bind all the way around the front facing and the hood facing, following the previous method of binding.
STEP 8. With right sides together, pin the hood facing to the hood. Stitch on the seam allowance line. Trim the seam allowance back in layers so you don’t have a bulky line when you turn the facing through to the outside.
STEP 9. Press into position. Trim the neck edge seam to even it up before you bind this as well. Make sure you start the binding underneath where the facing will fold back.
STEP 10. Secure the facing at the top of the hood by stitching it to the hood seam line.
THE HEM
STEP 1. Measure up the hem and pin into position. Fold the facing back on itself and bag out both sides. Trim the excess hem allowance that sits behind the facing.
STEP 2. Using a hand sewing needle and thread stitch the hem up.
THE FINAL PRESS
STEP1. Trim any excess threads and give your garment a final press.
ADD YOUR TOGGLES
STEP 1. Measure from the Centre Front (the length of the toggle) across and then from the top of the hood down to get the correct position for your toggles. Put pins in place to secure the placement. Pin the Toggles on ready for you to sew them on. Make sure you check that the position of both sides are correct before stitching in place.
YOU HAVE MADE THE CAPE COAT
For another way to create The Cape Coat, see below our tutorial demonstrating how to make The Cape Coat from start to finish.
